PAUL Heslop dons his boots and sets off from Icknield Way to discover gliders, a huge quarry and a church on this walk.

More than 4,000 years old, the Icknield Way might be the oldest road in England. It's a former trading route, linking the south-west and Norfolk, and it passes through Whipsnade. Icknield' derives from the Old English for upper', which is appropriate since it follows the highest ground, here crossing The Green and continuing along the top of the grassy escarpment to Dunstable Downs.

The 'Way' passes by the Tree Cathedral, a plantation intended as a place of worship, meditation and the peaceful engagement of nature'. It was founded in 1931 by Mr Blyth in memory of three friends killed in the Great War. Beyond, the path crosses grassy downland until the Vale of Aylesbury appears in view spectacularly ahead. This is a place of flying: jet aircraft bound for Luton, the throb of monoplanes towing gliders, and kites, the latter by the score on a good day. The Countryside centre is a magnet for families, the kite-flyers who break off from this skilful activity only for ice cream and cold drinks and children, who either watch impatiently or take not the slightest notice.

A notice says gliding has gone on here for over 70 years. Today, scores of gliders adorn the airstrip below, each resting on a wingtip, like so many silent birds waiting to take to the sky. Nearby is Robertson's Corner', not that the map acknowledges the monument dedicated to two brothers killed in action at Hanover and the Somme. Across the road are those they died for, playing and laughing, none visiting the monument or even noticing it.

A quiet back road leads off, the terrain changing from downland to scrub. This is a grim landscape, yet the path which leads through woods further on puts things right; there's nothing quite like a walk in the woods, not even when the senses are shocked on sight of a quarry of gargantuan proportions. They have cut deep into the chalk here, taken away natures own and left a great amphitheatre. On goes the path, as though defying man's desecration. As for the quarried stone, it's turned into slurry and sent by pipe underground to Rugby and made into Portland cement. So, no nasty lorries to blight the landscape.

All the way to Kensworth Church I saw not a soul. I might have been the only person to walk here for a generation. If, as we hope, those laid to rest in churchyards seek true peace, they have it here. The church was locked, but thankfully a pamphlet in the porch gives information about lichen. With more than 1,700 British species, over 300 are found growing on gravestones in churchyards, most commonly on the top where they are enriched by bird droppings'. Lichen colonies, we are told, are self-maintaining gardens, providing cladding for the stones.

Further on, Kensworth carries the busy B4540, but Dovehouse Lane turns into a quiet and ancient by-road, leading in turn to another deserted path which passes alongside the gardens of Holywell's fashionable estate, then ultimately to another lane forming another section of the Icknield Way. The byway is overgrown, with branches of ancient trees almost meeting in the centre. They have grown from the high embankments for centuries. The road is closed to traffic and here, perhaps more than anywhere on the walk, one senses being in an ancient place which it is.

There is no pub at journey's end, but one should not despair. Instead, cross The Green to the Parish Church of St Mary Magdalene, Whipsnade. The tower is the oldest part, built around 1590 of English bond' bricks, the first made locally. The nave is more recent, only dating back to 1719, and made of Bedfordshire Greys'. Inside, the pulpit is 17th century, and ancient graffiti adorns the walls at the base of the bell tower. The list of priests dates back to 1218 when the first, a chap called Gervaise, held the position a mere three months because he was illiterate.

Approximate distance: 8 miles

Start and Finish:

The Green, Whipsnade

Route:

l. = left. r. = right.

n. s. e. w. = north, south, east, west.

br. = bridge. r.o.w. = right of way.

PH = public house. m. = mile.

s/post = signpost. f/post = fingerpost.

b/way = bridleway. ch. = church. f/p = footpath.

Routefinder:

Cross The Green to Tree Cathedral' and follow the Icknield Way to the Countryside Visitor centre, Dunstable Downs. Locate Robertson's Corner' monument behind, and follow old road s.e. 0.25 m to derelict house, taking r.o.w. through woods, around perimeter of quarry and across fields to Kensworth Ch. Take Hollicks Lane to Kensworth, turn l at main rd (B4540), and r. along Dovehouse La. To rd. Turn r. then l on r.o.w., keeping to l of gardens of private houses, Holywell. Follow path 0.25 m, turn along Holywell Close to main rd. Turn l then sharp r. at Knoll House Retirement Home, following ancient lane & Icknield Way to Whipsnade.

Pubs and Place of Refreshment:

Countryside Visitor Centre, Dunstable Downs

The Farmers Boy, Kensworth

Note: Whipsnade Ch. on end of The Green.