THE original Christ Church at Chorleywood was built in 1845 but only lasted 25 years when, due its dilapidated state, it had to be demolished, except for the tower, and rebuilt. Nearby, on the busy A404 a turnpike was once located by The Gate public house. Times change, and so does fashion: the turnpike has long gone, and the pub is now the Jenny Wren.

It's amazing how the noise of the M25 disappears when you walk through the troutstream village', Loudwater. These high-value properties, occupying the lovely valley of the Chess, were hard to sell, even at £1,300, when the site was developed in the 1920's. Today they will cost you the fortune you may not have.

Thankfully, rights of way are protected, and the Chess Valley Walk negotiates the riverbank as far as Batchworth. In no time I was free of houses and traffic, traversing woodland and open meadows, so near and yet so far from busy roads on the very borders of London.

The river has carved out a wide, shallow valley, defied the incursion of modern-day housing and factories. Yet this is a place of social and economic history; people have always lived near the Chess, and worked here too, in mills and farming. Now there is fishing and leisure. The Chess is always there, a friend awaiting a visit by anyone who would seek to escape the pressures of today's stressful, high-speed world.

On a dank, autumn day I saw no sign of life, save the ubiquitous grey squirrels, until I reached the Watford road. A deserted byway led to the equally deserted Grand Union Canal. It flows to Batchworth, a meeting of waters: Grand Union, Rivers Gade and Chess. On one of the many benches alongside the towpath was memorial plate dedicated to a much loved canal character'. Such dedications have become fashionable. I wondered what such a plate might say about me; it was worrying that nothing had come to mind by the time I reached St Mary's Church.

Inside the church, a leaflet proclaimed church bell ringing to be a thoroughly enjoyable and deeply fascinating art', and post-it' stickers had lots of messages, including: Dear God, please bless Auntie Emma. Keep her safe in heaven', from an 11-year old girl, and To Dad, I'll never stop loving you', from a proud son. There were many more. All the stained glass and ornate figures in the world cannot match the simple messages of those who care for others.

And so to Ricky', the place where this exiled Geordie came in, as it were. The name derives from the Saxon, Ryckmer', although it is recorded in the Domesday Book as Prichemaresworde'. A place of history, then, and moreso thanks to William Penn, who lived at Basing House for five years after his marriage to Gulielma Maria Springett.

In the 17th century, Penn a Quaker, went to the New World where he settled by the Delaware River and decided to call the land Sylvania. At the insistence of Charles II, the family name was included, hence Pennsylvania. A tablet on the wall describes Penn as a man of vision, crusader for civil and religious liberty, designer of European peace'. We could do with him now. Today, Basing House was encased in scaffolding having been struck by lightning and severely damaged the week before.

For the stranger, Rickmansworth town is worth exploring: a narrow main street, these days happily free of traffic, and Penn Place, named after the said William. The Keystone public house takes its name from Pennsylvania, the keystone-shaped state.

I returned to the Chess, crossing to the other side of the river and exploring more of Loudwater. Back at Christ Church, Chorleywood Common, one of the most important wildlife sites in Hertfordshire', is worth a visit, with white arrows marking a circular walk through woods and heathland. An information board tells of ox-eyed daisies and ponds, along with a history of the common and its woodland. It's a grand walk at any time of year.

Approximate distance: Seven miles

Start and Finish:

Christ Church, Chorleywood

(by the A404, near the Jenny Wren public house)

[Option to visit Chorleywood Common (extra 2 miles' walking)

Abbreviations:

l.= left.

r. = right.

n. s. e. w. = north, south, east, west.

br. = bridge

r.o.w. = right of way.

PH = public house

m. = mile

s/post = signpost.

f/post fingerpost

b/way = bridleway

ch. = church

f/p = footpath

Routefinder:

From Christ Church take A404 past Jenny Wren PH, cross M25, turn l. through wrought iron gate into Troutstream Way towards R. Chess. turn r. on Chess Valley Walk to Rickmansworth roundabout at Rick. Park Sch. Pass under r/way, turn l. f/p 30' to Grand Union Canal. Take towpath to Batchworth Lock.

To Ch. of St Mary the Virgin, Rickmansworth, on to traffic lights, High St. Turn r. Visit Basing House behind Library. Cont. High St. to R. Chess. Retrace steps to isolated signpost, cross footbridge, follow path to Loudwater Chess Lane, turn r on f/p 10 towards Sarratt. Turn l, then 3rd l. down Troutsteam Way, re-cross Chess. Retrace steps to Christ Church.

Pubs and Places of Refreshment:

Chorleywood: The Jenny Wren, The White Horse

Chorleywood Common: several

Rickmansworth: The Feathers. Several others in the town