PAUL HESLOP discovers the scene of one the most infamous crimes in history while walking in Cheddington this month.

The Old Swan, Cheddington, dates back at least to 1753, and maybe earlier. With its thatched roof and olde worlde charm it almost shouts England' at you.

I set forth along the main street, to the village green where a sign proudly proclaims the tree, seat, notice board and village sign were planted and installed to commemorate the Millennium' by the parish council. How good it is to know our villages are in caring hands.

A long, narrow footpath leads to St Giles church. A grand walk, this, with birdsong and the occasional rumble of not too-distant trains, the only sounds.

A kissing gate affords entrance to the churchyard. Inside the porch are several interesting notices: one declares members to be part of the F.R.O.G. Squad Fully Reliant on God; another, dated 1986, celebrates 900 years of Norman heritage' and the Domesday Book of 1086, in which Cheddington's name appears, as Cetendone. It occurred to me that no-one around today will celebrate 1,000 years. What a shame. I wonder if they will replace the plaque when it happens.

Soon I was crossing open fields, bound for Mentmore. It was a damp, fresh morning, with not a soul in sight. To the right, on a high embankment, is the railway. So often I have seen these fields from Virgin trains (usually later than expected). I imagined the old steam locos, chugging up the line. Somehow, the picture seemed better.

Ahead was a grand mansion, Mentmore Towers, floating like a mirage above its tree-capped hill'. It's in view for ages from the right of way, and it's as well for it stands in private grounds and is inaccessible to the public. It was designed in Elizabethan style for Baron de Rothschild, by Sir Joseph Paxton, famous for the Crystal Palace, London. It belongs to Maharishi Mahesh Yogi now.

Mentmore village is a place of fine trees, which once included elms, now sadly gone. Still present is the church, St Mary's, where today the flag of St George fluttered from the tower, a pleasing sight when we read so often of our illustrious political leaders' frowning on such a thing. I left the village and headed again into open country. It started raining. Who should care about the weather when one can walk free?

The muddy path meandered towards the railway where, on 8 August, 1963, a short distance up the elevated stretch of line, is the scene of one the most infamous crimes in history the so-called Great Train Robbery, when £2.6m was stolen from the London-bound mail train. The names of the robbers are almost folklore now; but who can recall the name of the train driver, Jack Mills, who was hit with an iron bar and who died too long afterwards for it to be classed as murder'?

And so to Horton Wharf and the Grand Union Canal, where a fingerpost points to London'. This is a quiet stretch, with only the odd fisherman, today hidden beneath giant parasols.

Three miles further I turned for Cheddington and The Old Swan. The inn is haunted by the ghost of a man who wears a long dark coat. He was murdered, apparently. Go inside and check it out if you dare.Approximate distance: 8 miles

Start and Finish: The Old Swan, Cheddington

Car Park, Recreation Ground, nr. Old Swan

Route: Cheddington main street, St Giles' Church, Mentmore, St Mary's Church, Horton Wharf, Grand Union Canal, Great Seabrook

Abbreviations

l.=left; r.=right; n. s. e. w.=north, south, east, west; br.=bridge; r.o.w.=right of way; PH=public house; m.=mile; s/post=signpost; f/post=fingerpost; b/way=bridleway; ch.=church; f/p = footpath; r/way=railway; cont.=continue; FM=farm

Routefinder

Main Street, Cheddington, turn r. Church Lane (opp village green), follow f/p to ch. Cont. n. to rd, turn r. 0.25 m. to f/p on l, then r. on b/way. At s/post take r.o.w. to Mentmore.

At rd. turn r. to ch. Retrace steps, take rd. l. towards Ledburn, then r. unnamed rd (pines), and f/p across fields, passing under railway to rd. Turn r. towards Horton, l. at s/post on r.o.w. to Grand Union Canal (Horton Wharf). Follow towpath 2.5m. Take r.o.w. to Great Seabrook, under railway to rd. Turn r. to Cheddington.

Pubs

Cheddington: The Old Swan(inn)

The Three Horseshoes

Mentmore: The Stag

Note

Canal towpath (off route, s. of village)

The Duke of Wellington