MOOR MILL in Park Street must be one of the most alluring pubs to sit outside of a summer's eve, with the River Ver babbling at your feet and the historic mill building behind (though, granted, the M25 is right behind that).

A glass-fronted scroll inside tells you that there was a mill on the site before Domesday and lists the owners ever since. The current owner is Whitbread, the previous owner Vintage Inns, and before that the independent operator who carried out the conversion.

That renovation and restoration, I recall, was done with true devotion to craftsmanship and a genuine interest in researching the past. Downstairs, the great mill wheel turns again, powered by the mill race, while upstairs in the wooden floored restaurant you can see the workings and other memorabilia.

It was all carried out with tremendous attention to detail and for some years that extended to the beer, with four or five changing and interesting real ales on handpump. Sadly, on the night we visited it was down to one, Abbot Ale drinkable but not in the tip-top condition you would like for this fine brew.

There are all sorts of bars and rooms and passage ways and nooks and a corresponding welter of menus from blackboard and day bar menu to a more sophisticated evening menu in what is one of the Out and Out brands.

We decided to choose off the a la carte and I have to say I found £43.25 for three main courses including a pint of Abbots and two glasses of wine a bit steep. Vegetables cost extra a bowl of slightly dry carrot batons, broccoli and leek rings was £3.

Roast duck with plum and brandy sauce, and rack of lamb with red wine and rosemary, both £9.95, both gained favourable comments.

My pork with honey and cider cost the same, though was only belly pork accompanied by that new delight "crushed" new potatoes.

Why cook spuds then squash them?